Pre-Tune Checklist

Here is a list of things to check before coming for a tuning appointment.

Electrical Issues

Wiring
Please make sure your car is not a wiring disaster, as this can cause many time consuming delays hunting down issues.
 

Codes
If the check engine light is on please consult with a SpeedFactory employee before you make the appointment so that we can resolve the issue before the car is on the dyno.

Fueling Issues

Fuel Pumps
If running an external fuel pump, please check your filters before the tuning session.  We recommend stainless filters for aftermarket external fuel pump setups to ensure compatability with all fuels.  Pre-filter should be 20-40 micron, and post filter should be 100+ micron for Bosch 044 fuel pumps.

Fuel Pressure
We recommend having a fuel pressure gauge.  Base fuel pressure with engine on and vacuum line removed should be between 40-50psi for most applications.

Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
Aftermarket FPR is not necessary for every application.  An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a good idea if you need to get more flow out of a given size injector. 

Injectors
Make sure there are no vacuum or fuel leaks as a result of torn or old o-rings. Also, make sure your fuel injectors are sized appropriately for the power that you are trying to make. Below is a quick guideline for injector to power rating:

• 240cc/min (stock): 170-180whp
• 310cc/min: 200-240whp
• 370cc/min: 250-275whp
• 440cc/min: 300-325whp
• 550cc/min:350-375whp
• 650cc/min: 400-425whp
• 750cc/min: 450-475whp
• 1000cc/min: 600whp
• 1200cc/min: 700whp
• 1600cc/min: 850whp

*Note that more power can be made with the same size injector with higher base fuel pressures. You must have a fuel pump that sustain high fuel pressures. The BEST pump we have found is the Bosch 044 inline fuel pump. Using a Walbro 255lph HP intank fuel pump, and the Bosch 044 fuel pump inline fuel pressure can be held in the 120-130 psi range. With high base fuel pressures of 60-70psi, 20-30% more cc/min flow can be had from the same injector size. If using E85 fuel, all injector ratings will be approximately 30% less.

Mechanical Issues

Engine
Compression test results should be as follows:

• 8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder
• 8.5:1~9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder
• 9.5:1~11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder
• 11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder (highly depends on cams being used)

Valve Lash
Make sure the engine has proper valve lash for the cams being used.

Timing Belt

• Needs to be installed properly.
• Should have minimal to no slack. If it is too loose, you run the risk of skipping a tooth or running incorrect timing.

Oil Leaks
Some of the more common types of leaks are:

• Oil pan
• Cam seal
• Distributor seal
• Valve cover gasket seal
• VTEC solenoid seal
• Oil filter
• Oil sandwich adapter

All leaks will need to be fixed before tuning.

Clutch
Make sure your clutch you are using is rated for the power that you plan on making. DO NOT come for a tuning appointment with a forced induction setup and a stock clutch! We see this happen all the time, and your tuning session will be cut short due to clutch slippage. You will still be required to pay the full tuning fee.  If you plan on making more than 550whp level, its a good idea to run a twin disk clutch. They are more expensive, but give superior torque capacity holding and high rpm shifting. We sell and recommend Competition Clutch. If you would like to discuss what clutch is best for your application, or pricing please email sales@speedfactoryracing.net

Turbo System Issues

General Information

• Make sure you have secured your pipes so that they do not blow off. Use silicone hoses where and t-bolt clamps. Also, have a ridge or bead welded to the edge of the charge pipe so the clamp has something to bite to.
• Make sure all of the bolts are tightened and you don’t have exhaust leaks.
• Make sure the o2 sensor hole is big enough to fit the common wideband sensors.
• Make sure the blow off valve is tight.
• Be sure to use the proper oil feed and return lines and that they are installed properly.
• Turbo shaft play. A bad turbo will not perform well.

 

Exhaust:

Turbo cars should run 3″exhausts. All motor and supercharged B and D-series motors can run a 2.5” exhaust. A 3” exhaust is not necessary, but will not hurt power if it is used. All motor, supercharged, and nitrous K and H-series motors should use 3” exhausts.

Intercooler
We recommend, sell and use Garrett or Precision bar and plate intercoolers.

Ignition
We recommend OEM spark plug wires/coil packs for every application. If running MSD, we only recommend using the digital series, not the analog. Make sure you have the proper coil to go with the digital 6 or 7 ignition box.

Cap/Rotor
New OEM cap and rotor are recommended unless running an ignition amplifier box, such as MSD, M&W, etc. If aftermarket CDI ignition is used with distributed spark and external coil, use an MSD cap and rotor.    

Spark Plugs
Spark plugs are a very important aspect that should not be overlooked for performance applications. The need for a colder spark plug increases with power output (heat), and different engine management systems have different RF (Radio Frequency) thresholds that require a resistor style spark plug to be used. A resistor style spark plug is just that, it has a resistor built in so that the spark plug can absorb the RF energy generated from the spark. Certain systems such as Hondata s300 and Hondata Kpro are very susceptible to RF noise interference, and as a result should only be used with a resistor style plug.  Datalogging may not work at high rpm, as well as possible ignition misfire if non-resistor plugs are used with the Hondata system. Below are listed RESISTOR style spark plugs:

• BKR7E (good up to 500whp)
• BKR8EIX (good up to 600 whp)
• BKR9EIX (good up to 700-800whp)
• R6601-10 (good up to 1000whp)

If you are not using Hondata s300 or Hondata Kpro for engine management, here are plugs you can use:

• NGK BKR7E (up to 500whp)
• NGK R5671A-8 (up to 600whp)
• NGK R5671A-9 (up to 800whp)
• NGK R5671A-10 (up to 1000whp)

OBD Conversions
What you’ll need to go from OBD-2 to OBD-1 are the following:

• OBD-2 to OBD-1 conversion harness
• OBD-1 ECU such as p28/p30/p72/p75/p06/etc
• OBD-1 injector clips if going with aftermarket fuel injectors

What you’ll need to go from OBD-0 to OBD-1 are the following:

• OBD-0 to OBD-1 converter harness
• OBD-1 distributor
• remove resistor pack if using saturated style injector
• OBD-1 ecu

We have conversion harnesses, injector clips and ecus in stock. Please call or email for availability.

Miscellaneous Issues

Basic Things to Check

• We have a Dynapack Dyno. We take the wheels off of your car to tune the car. Do not come to the appointment without the wheel lug key if you have locking wheel lugs.
• Bring extra spark plugs if you don’t want to pay for them. New spark plugs are NOT included in the tuning rate.
• Make sure all fluid levels are up to par.
• Make sure your thermostat is working correctly.  Bleed the coolant system before you come for the appointment. If your car is overheating or overcooling, DO NOT come for the appointment. I cannot tune a car that is overheating or overcooling.
• You NEED to have an o2 bung in the downpipe/header in order for me to tune your car. On a turbo car i prefer the o2 bung to be at least 10 inches away from the turbine housing discharge and at least 1 foot from the opening of the exhaust.
• Check to make sure that your o2 sensor is able to be taken out at the time of the tuning appointment. With heat cycling o2 sensors tend to “stick” into the threads, especially if anti-seize was not used prior to installation. We get many cars that come into tuning appointments that close to an hour is spent trying to remove the o2 sensors due to rusting/sticking.  If you are in doubt, loosen the o2 sensor before the tuning appointment to make sure its able to be removed with ease at time of tuning. Hourly labor rate will be charged if o2 sensor is not able to be removed easily.
• Please make sure that the o2 sensor hole is opened up the entire diameter of the threaded bung. Alot of headers and downpipes are only opened up enough to allow for a honda o2 sensor to be installed. I use a Bosch LSU wideband oxygen sensor to tune with, the tip of the sensor is the entire diameter of the threaded bung. If the hole is not large enough, we cannot install my o2 sensor.
• We can tune an automatic car,  ONLY IF, the transmission is able to be locked into a particular gear. The dynapack dyno calculates horsepower and torque by knowing a single gear ratio. If the automatic transmission shifts into different gears while under a load, the dyno cannot provide the proper load and cannot calculate horspower/torque.
• Make sure you have the correct size wastegate spring in your wastegate (turbo cars only). You can typically more than double the rated spring pressure with a boost controller. An electronic boost controller will allow more boost to be achieved in comparison to a manual boost controller. If you only plan on running pump gas, use a lower rated wastegate spring and run a boost controller to turn up the boost.  

Fuel
No matter what fuel you are tuning on, you will need to have a half tank of gas in the car for the tuning session. This usually equates to about 5 gallons of gas.  

Oil

• All motor (street or race car): 5w30 or 10w30
• SC, Turbo, Nitrous (Street car): 10w30 or 10w40
• Track only cars (turbo): 20w50

We use and recommend Brad Penn or Torco. OEM Honda filter or Purolator filter are recommended. NOTE:  Most built high performance engines are set at looser tolerances, and will consume synethic oil much more frequently than non-synthetic.
 
Oil Change Frequency
High performance street cars:

• Turbo: ~2000 miles (1000 miles if run harder)
• N/A, Supercharge, Nitrous: ~3000 miles
• Track cars: After every race!

Summary

If you come to an appointment with a car that is not working properly you may be asked to leave depending upon the severity of the issue. If the problem is minor enough to be fixed at the shop during the day, we can fix it, but NOT FOR FREE.

If you show up to a tuning appointment with a problem, one of two things will happen. You may be asked to leave, fix the car, and bring it back when it’s ready, and will pay for any time spent working on or tuning your car. 

The second scenario is that we may choose to fix the problem for you at our hourly labor rate.

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